Day 7 - Home Again

And so the wheel turns once more, and the final morning of our Highland sojourn finds us gazing wistfully at our emptying suitcases and the fading echo of adventure. The week has slipped past like mist on the moors, vanishing even as we reached to hold it still. Now, the time has come to retrace our steps—albeit reluctantly—back to the well-worn paths of everyday life.

This morning we take our breakfast in the bright restaurant/bar of the hotel, the clink of cutlery and the low murmur of commercial travellers and other holidaymakers, lending a gentle accompaniment to our reverie. Outside, the sky hangs heavy with that northern  morning light we’ve grown so fond of—soft, pewter-hued, and wholly unsuited to goodbyes.

Soon, a waiting taxi shall bear us through the winding streets of Perth to the station, where the iron serpent of the southbound train awaits. As the engine pulls away and the landscape begins its slow transformation—from the wild grace of the Highlands to the gentler, more mannered terrain of the Lowlands—we shall feel the change not only in scenery, but in spirit. With every mile gained, the enchantment loosens its grip, the spell of the north lifting like a dream at dawn.

By the time we arrive at London King's Cross, bustling and bright with the business of the world, we will be once again citizens of reality—albeit reluctantly so. Yet not all is lost: there remains the golden reward of reunion. Our daughter’s smile, and the silken black shadow of our ever-watchful cat shall welcome us home with quiet delight.

Yes, the holiday must end. But what is a return, if not the prelude to the next departure? The hills will wait. And so, with hearts full and bags packed, we go.

Epilogue

Well we are home, that's the main thing... I'm beginning to think that the broonie from the Tarot Reading that I did before we went, just didn't want us to leave again.

We got up and did our final packing, had breakfast OK and were waiting outside the hotel for the taxi at the booked time and the taxi was punctual, so we arrived with plenty of time to spare at Perth Station. From then on, things got worse.

The train was on-time until twenty minutes before its arrival time. Then it slipped by one minute and then seven minutes - no biggie. When it arrived, we boarded and got our seats, settling down for a nice clean run to Kings Cross. The LNER train picked up speed and began vibrating horribly as it passed through 100mph, but was ten minutes behind when it arrived in Edinburgh. Still not fussed the train continued on with nothing more than that there would be a slight delay. 

Just before Newcastle and ominous announcement was made on the tannoy:

"Will the train manager please report to the driver. Will the train manager please report to the driver."

The first indication that not all was right.

The train pulled into Newcastle where there was an announcement that there would be a slight delay... Murmering started around the carriage. We sat for a good ten minutes then glided back out of the platform the way we had come in...

Coming back out of Newcastle, the way we went in

The train again picked up speed, vibrated horribly as it went through 100mph and then continued. Everything settled down to normality. 

All seemed fine until the train passed York, its last stop before proceeding directly to London, then once again an announcement. 

"Attention, attention, please pay attention to this announcement... if anyone near you is wearing headphones, please ask them to remove them as everyone must hear this announcement..."

After that the tannoy proceeded to tell us that the train was going to terminate at Doncaster, where everyone was to leave the train. There would be attendants on the platform who would direct us to another train, which would proceed to Kings Cross. 

The train stopped at Doncaster and there was no one on the platform to tell us what to do, but thankfully we all realised theat the train on the other side of the platform was the on that had been assembled for us. So we got on and with now over 40 minutes delayed (well at least we could now demand a refund), we continued to London.

We arrived at King's Cross and instead of suffering the underground, we got a cab to Waterloo, where we were in time for the 17.09 to Farnborough, we got onto the platform and I had just got to the carriage door, the malitious shit of a guard shut them and signalled the train to leave. We then had to get let off the platform to go and find the next train.

Still we got home in the end...

Map and Stats for the journey home

Final poem - alternative (and more realistic) ending

Some Final Statistics

Total distance travelled: 1,418.38 miles

Distance by rented car: 163.8 miles

Distance travelled by train: 1,254.58 miles

Time spent on trains: 19 hours 44 minutes

Average speed of train journeys: 63.5mph

Day 6 - Inverness to Perth

This morning started with a hearty breakfast at Wetherspoons – a reliable choice, especially when one has developed a taste for a particular Scottish delicacy. I had yet another haggis in a bap, and I have to say, I’m not tired of it yet. There’s something about the warm, peppery richness of the haggis paired with soft bread that just hits the spot. I noticed that some were adding a little brown sauce to the haggis, but I prefer the flavour as is.

After breakfast, we dedicated some time to souvenir hunting – a careful balance of finding things that aren’t entirely tacky while still suitably Scottish. Tartan and tweed or tea towels with Scottish sayings. Novelty shortbread tins, and a few Highland cow-themed items later, we emerged with a interesting haul. 

Then it was back to the hotel for the usual faff of packing up. Somehow everything seems to expand while you’re away – clothes that fit neatly on the way up suddenly balloon outwards like they’ve been on a whisky binge of their own. But eventually, the bags were zipped and we were ready for the next leg of the journey.

Our next stop was the food hall, where we knew we could get some Cullen Skink before catching the train to Perth. It feels like the perfect bookend to our stay here – a warming bowl of creamy, smoky fish soup before heading off into the next part of the adventure.

Cullen Skink at Inverness Food Hall

The purveyors of the most excellent Cullen Skink

The Cullen Skink was £8 per bowl, but worth every penny! The purveyors, The Red Shank, certainly know their stuff... If you ever go to Inverness, this is an absolute must. There’s something comforting and grounding about Cullen Skink, especially when it’s eaten in Scotland. This set us up nicely for the journey to Perth.

Map and stats for Inverness to Perth

Yes I know that the Stone of Scone is in Perth Museum, but for all you, who like me, are Gen X Hammer Horror Nuts - this is far more important:

You can see the face is modelled on Christopher Lee!

This evening we are going out for our last meal at a restaurant called The North Port. Initially, we were going to go to a restaurant kalled Kisas, but thankfull, when we phoned up to book, they were full... Looking at it from the outside it looked like the kind of trendy place that I find avoiding is the best policy. 

The North Port

Instead, we managed to book into The North Port, a 'Scottish Restaurant' and boy did we strike it lucky. I had Scottish venison with chargriled vegetables while Sarah had pork medallions, with seasonal vegetables. We decided to share a cheeseboard of Scottish cheeses for dessert, washed down by a Sandyman ruby port. It was fantastic. The cheeses were:

Cora Linn: A raw sheep's milk cheese, with a nutty and crumbly texture. 

Kintyre Blue: A hand made cheese from Howgate, made with Ayrshire cows. A mild creamy blue cheese.

Anster: A milky, crumbly, fresh tasting cheese.

Cambeltown Applesmoke Cheddar: smoked traditionally over apple wood chips.

Minger: A washed rind cheese made using cow-milk. A velvety cheese with a gentle nuttiness.

Once again, anyone visiting Perth should make a point of going here before any other restaurant, it is a gem!

Then tomorrow, it is back on the train for home.

Day 5 - Inverness and Loch Ness

This morning we spent daundering around Inverness, gawking at the the shops. We went to the museum, where a volunteer, Andrew Newton, gave a talk on the Romans in Scotland... and no, Hadrian's Wall isn't as far as the Romans went. There has been a recent discovery of a Roman road near Perth, and the records show that Septimius Severus made several long campaigns into the  highlands. Most fascinating presentation.

Pictish Wolf Carving

After the museum, we went to the food hall where we had a spot of lunch - will probably return tomorrow as Cullen Skink is on sale here.

In the afternoon, we went on a tour round Loch Ness...

We’re going on a Nessie hunt,
We’re gonna find a big one,
We’re not sceptical—
Well… maybe just a wee bit.

We’re going on a Nessie hunt,
We’ve packed a flask and binoculars,
We’re not sceptical—
Just watching for bubbles…

We’re going on a Nessie hunt,
There’s something in the water…
We’re not sceptical—
It’s probably just an otter.

We’re going on a Nessie hunt,
We saw a splash—did you see that?
We’re not sceptical—
Just... walking away briskly, that’s all.

 

Map and statistics for our trip to Loch Ness

We went by coach to Dochgarroch Lochs where we boarded the tour boat Jacobite Rebel and proceeded down the Caledonian Canal and out onto Loch Ness.

The Weir where the Caledonian Canal spits from the River Ness

Looking Down Into Loch Ness

After we disembarked, Sarah had an interesting time exploring the castle - it is bigger than it looks from the outside. 

The famous Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness

On the way back, the coach driver took a wee detour to allow the passengers to photograph some Highland Cattle:

A Highland Bull, not a Coo!

We had an hour's trip back to Inverness with interesting commentary through the Highlands to the North-West of Loch Ness. The driver, who was also the commentator had some fun trying to teach the passengers some of the Gallic, but I am afraid I have already forgotten it.

When we got back, we decided to have our meal at a pub near to the bus station, a Bellhaven pub called Platform 8, and I am sad to say, I have had my first encounter with an unpleasant Scotsman... We seated ourselves at a lovely corner seat and Sarah had just gone up to order the food when this man came up to me. 

He was an auld, thrawn, and fair scunnered, wi a face like a beetroot ready tae burst. His neb wis aye curlin at folk, an he could blether ye daft wi a wheesht o pure bile. Ye’d think the warld owed him a pint an ne'er paid up.

"Yer in me place" he said, "We wis here afore ye"

So I replied, in my best Scots:

"Weel, ye didnae mark it as yours afore we came, an we’re here noo — sae sling yer hook  ye daft bugger!"

With that he went back to his wife, who gae him a right bit o laldie aboot his ongauns an she didnae let up for a good while . We enjoyed our meal in relative quiet though and left.

And tomorrow, we're off to Perth.

Auch and aye - we didnae see Nessie!

Day 4 - Edinborough to Inverness

 Today, we bid farewell to Edinburgh. We left our hotel at quarter to nine and went to Edinburgh Waverley Station, via the Weatherspoons which used to be the station's old booking office. For breakfast, I had a Haggis in a bap:

Weatherspoon's Haggis in a Bap

Thus fortified, we walked down from the old Booking Office to the main concourse of the station, where we waited for the platform to be announced. As usual for railway companies, the platform was announced (unlucky 13) four minutes before the train was due to leave. There weren't too many people waiting for the train, as it was a stopping service rather than a fast, so we managed to get a good seat and waited for the train to set off. 

Map and stistics - Edinburgh Waverley to Inverness

We arrived at Inverness around quarter past two, and booked into the hotel a little while later. After freshening up, we had a walk round to a second hand bookshop. We decided to eat at the hotel this evening, rather than going out.

This evening we are going to have an early night, then tomorrow, we are going to visit the museum and gallery. We are also going to have a look at the northernmost  Anglican cathedral in the British Isles, before going on a tour of Loch Ness.

Day 3 - St. Andrews back to Edinburgh, via the Wallace Monument

Well, it's day three already. and today we are going to have a leisurely drive back to Edinburgh and this evening, experience The Whiski Rooms, where Haggis, Tatties and Neeps are on the menu!

Fiat 500

The car we had on the rental was a Fiat 500 hybrid. On the first day we had it, we didn't know where the charging ports were, so my phone died, while I was in Crail, but on day three, thanks to a quick Youtube video, I knew where to connect my cable and how to activate Android auto, was a much-less frought journey all-round.

It was a fairly leisurely journey through Coupar, Auchtermuchty and Drum before we arrived at the Wallace Monument in Stirling.

A beautiful sunny day by the way.

The Wallace Monument from the Car Park

The monument is one of the most interesting pieces of Victorian architecture... over the top in every way, but somehow it all works. The surrounding was equally as breath-taking.

View Scross Stirling from the Wallace Monument

Our journey back to Edinburgh was also pretty uneventful and we are now installed back in the hotel... in the same room we had before thanks to the awfy swteet lass on the desk.

Out for the evening... Sarah treated me to a whisky tasting at the Whiski Rooms.

The Whiski Rooms

We sampled four whiskies:

The Four Whiskies from our Tasting Experience

When we arrived at the tasting, we discovered that we were the only people who had booked for the tasting. So there was me, Sarah and the person doing the presentation. 

I cannot compliment enough the person that did the tasting... A kanny lass and knowledgeable. I was very impressed and learned a great deal about oak seasoning. A great time. I was able to order some bottles and have them posted home, so I don't have to carry them around for the rest of the trip. One of the bottles I purchased was the last bottle of a limited edition, which is going to be for the next BF with my brother. 

Following this we also had our meal at the Whiski Rooms, and inevitably, I had Haggis, Tatties and Neeps - graduitous food-porn photo:

Haggis Tatties and Neeps

It was fantastic!

Following this, we made our way (slowly) back down Market Street and with a little break at the Weatherspoons at Waverley Station, we made our way back to the hotel.

The whisky tasting was a, somewhat early, birthday present from my beloved Sarah and a wonderful time I had of it.  Thanks my darling!

In Islay's heart, Kilchoman stands alone,

A farm distillery, by barley sown.

Machir Bay's waves impart a peated grace,

A smoky dance upon the tongue's embrace.

The GlenAllachie, twelve years refined,

Speyside's jewel, with flavors intertwined.

Honeyed butterscotch and mocha's kiss,

A symphony of tastes that don't amiss.

Tomatin's twelve, matured in casks of three,

Ex-bourbon, sherry, Scotch—complexity.

Aromas rich of heather, cedar, pine,

A Highland malt that's truly divine.

Glencadam's ten, in bourbon barrels laid,

A Highland spirit, crisp and finely made.

With grassy notes and citrus, soft yet bright,

A golden dram that brings pure delight.

 

Skyline of the Old Town from Princes Street

 

Day 2 - Crail and St. Andrews

Today, we picked up a rental car and went to Crail, where I met with my relatives. They were wonderful and took me around the cemetary so that I could pay my respects. But it was also so upsetting to see so many people that I knew buried together; some way too early. 

Even more upsetting is that my cousin informed me the Church of Scotland is selling the kirk... Yet another beautiful, historic edifice is being sold, rather than being maintained by those that are charged with caring for the welfare of the Scottish nation. I am disgusted. You cannot worship god and Mammon at the same time!

We then walked down to Crail Harbour Cafe where we had a wonderful lunch, with a great view out to May Island bird sanctury.

View to the Isle of May, from the Crail Harbour Cafe

After Crail, we went to St. Andrews, where we booked into our hotel, then took the bus into town to do some shopping and get a meal... we ended up having a pizza:

Pizza Night in St. Andrews

After this, we got a taxi back to the hotel, where we had a good freshen up. Today isn't much of an update becuase a great deal of it was personal. 

Normal service will resume tomorrow, with the Wallace Monument and back to Edinburgh.

Well We're Off... Day 1

 This is it... Today's the Day!

All packed and ready, the taxi was late arriving, giving us a wonderful panicky edge to start the day. In the end the car arrived with about ten minutes to spare. 

We got to Farnborough Main in time, but not with enough to take a photograph on the platform as we had intended; so a photo of Sarah on the first leg of the trip will have to do.

Sarah on the Farnborough to Waterloo

The train from Farnborough to Waterloo was on-time and it seemed like no time before we were in London. 

Map and Stats - Farnborough to Waterloo

We went down the steps from the platform into the underground (never used to be open at the weekends) and got to the Bakerloo platform really easily. Changing to the Victoria at Oxford Circus, we arrived at King's Cross St. Pancras underground, which was hardly that. It felt like a mile walk underground before we came up in the station. 

Pausing with enough time to pick up a couple of bottles of orange juice and a couple of Irn-Bru for the journey, we got on the Azuma at platform 1 and within a few minutes, were sliding out of the station and heading north. 

Map and Stats - Kings Cross to Edinburgh Waverley

Our journey begins with a cheer,

With biscuits and fizzy and gear.

We’ll cross every shire,

Then surely require

A nap and perhaps a wee beer.

An hour and a half into the journey and we have just left Doncaster... memories of changing for Hull (30 years ago), and are now heading for York.

Outside the window is beautiful sunlight, which bodes well for our trip, though I think the broonie that raised its head in the Tarot (see earlier post), has been making a bit of mischief. My rucksack is making suspicious ripping noises near the top of the arm sling. I might have to get a suitcase in Edinburgh and decant the contents.

I hoped you liked my limerick above... while I have been sitting here on the train I have written another poem, which you might like to look at here. I hope you like it.

We arrived at Edinburgh Waverley Station (the only station in the world to be named after a novel: Waverley by Sir Walter Scott), at exactly the time we said, though it took about fifteen minutes to work out how to get out of the station, but finally we did and arrived at our hotel shortly afterwards. Then, following a quick refresh, we crossed the road and joind a bus for a tour around Edinburgh.

We jumped off the bus at Grassmarket, to visit Bains Retro Sweet Shop a must for anyione visiting Edinburgh - It is here that you can get Scottish Tablet, genuine Scottish Shortbread and Berwick Cockles!

Scottish Tablet

Berwick Cockles

Scottish Shortbread

We had about half an hour to kill when we got back to the hotel, before going out to Howies restaurant, where Sarah had some Scottish Salmon and I had a casserole of Scottish venison; gratuitous food-porn photograph:

Casserole of Scottish Venison

I rounded it of with a lemon posset, and a Caol Ila 12 year okd Islay Whisky.

Following this we walked back to the hotel in the evening light...

Balmoral Hotel with the Sir Walter Scott Memorial Behind

I am going to catch up with the F1 and then get a moderately early night - Off to Crail and St. Andrews tomorrow.